How much of the original house is still there?
Is the real stuff hidden under modern linings?
Are there movement cracks in the walls? This would indicate foundation settlement.
Is the cracking recent, or has the building already stabilised? This may indicate some rot in your floor joists and/or wall plates.
Is the building damp? Does water come from the roof and gutters, or is it coming from below?

The solutions to these problems may be simpler and cheaper than you think.

Consider whether additions or substantial alterations will be necessary in order to achieve your desired lifestyle, and look for opportunities.

Is there enough space around the building, or does it feel crowded?

For advice, take a heritage architect or advisor to the house before you buy. You should also seek professional advice before carrying out work that might affect the stability of your house.

How can I find out the history of my house and when it was built?

There are several avenues of research. One starting place is the Tasmaniana Library (on the second floor of the State Library, 91 Murray Street, Hobart). Post Office Directories (from 1890 to 1948) list each street alphabetically and the house numbers with their occupants. It's worth beginning at 1948 and working backwards to the 1890's.

Assessment and Valuation Rolls (Published in the Hobart Town/Tasmanian Government Gazette) between 1847 and the 1950's are held in the Archives Office of Tasmania, 77 Murray Street. These provide information about the owner, occupier (not always the same), the rated value etc. The index is in a hardbound folder (ask the Archivist to help you) and the gazettes themselves are on microfilm. A large increase in the annual value usually indicates the construction of a building. The Archives Office also has some reports dealing with particular land grants and transactions, known as Caveat Board Reports.

A title search (Lands Titles Office, 1st Floor, 134 Macquarie Street) will establish the history of the land ownership from the 1830's, but this is time consuming and can be expensive. It's worth doing if you want irrefutable evidence of the history of the site.

Other places to search are local libraries, historical societies and museums.

Where can I find old photos of my house?

General historical information and photographs can sometimes be found in books and publications of your suburb or area. Some may be located in the Tasmaniana Library and it is also worth checking the correspondence files of the Archives Office. It may also be useful if you have the names of former owners, because there may be biographical material that includes photographs of a family home.

Photographic records are located in the Archives Office and also at the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery.

What is a "listed" property?

This means that the building or place is contained in one or more of the various heritage registers maintained by public and community bodies.

The main registers are:

the Tasmanian Heritage Register, maintained by the Tasmanian Heritage Council;
the Register of the National Estate, maintained by the Australian Heritage Commission;
the Register of Classified and Recorded Buildings, Places and Objects, maintained by the National Trust of Australia (Tasmania); and
heritage registers or codes of the relevant planning scheme, administered by the local Councils.

What is the "Burra Charter"?

The Burra Charter is a document (now available in illustrated form) published by the Australian ICOMOS (the International Council on Monuments and Sites). It contains definitions, principles, processes and practices relevant to the conservation of places of cultural significance.

The main text of the Burra Charter covers seven key concepts.

the place itself is important;
understand its significance;
understand the fabric;
significance should guide decisions;
do as much as necessary, but as little as possible;
keep records; and
do everything in a logical order.

What is a "Conservation Plan"?

This is a document or report, following the principles and processes of the Burra Charter, which sets out the history and evolution of a place and analyses its "cultural significance" (or its heritage value). It includes policies and recommendations for retaining the identified significance of a place. On complex sites a Conservation Plan may run into several volumes, but on most buildings a simpler document is adequate. It's the methodology and process which is important - not the length of the report.

What insurance cover should I get for my house?

Not all insurance companies provide cover for heritage buildings because they are unsure of the extent of their responsibilities. You should insure for the full market value. If you have any problems contact the Heritage Council.

If my listed house is destroyed by fire, do I have to rebuild it the way it was?

No. The extent of reconstruction would depend on the level of damage. If only part of the house was destroyed (e.g. the roof) there would be an expectation that it would be rebuilt with a similar appearance. If the whole house were destroyed, neither the Heritage Council nor the Local Council would expect it to be rebuilt in its original form. Any new building would, however, need to comply with the normal planning requirements, such as the need to respect the character of an established neighbourhood.

Can I remove an internal wall? Can I remove a fireplace?

First, think carefully about whether you actually need to change the house's existing layout, and what the consequences might be. Are there alternatives that do not require removal of internal elements? Work to places on the Tasmanian Heritage Register will require the approval of the Tasmanian Heritage Council. As part of the approval process skilled heritage staff will assess which aspects of your building have heritage importance and how your proposals affect those aspects. If your proposal would result in the loss of something important, your application may be rejected. Chimneys are important features of old houses that add to the character of a street, and should generally be retained.

What can I do to my fretting sandstone wall?

First, work out what is causing the problem. You will probably find that the fretting is worse lower down. This is usually because there is a solid barrier like a concrete path or slab or bitumen or concrete pavers stopping the ground near your wall from breathing. The ground moisture that evaporates through the moist porous route available is probably being forced up through the wall itself rather than the ground. The moisture brings with it some salts that crystallise as they dry and blow the stone surface causing fretting.

Replace your solid barrier with a porous material like dirt or handmade bricks to improve breathing. Then consider applying a porous lime render to the fretting area of wall. This render will move the fretting process from the sandstone into the render itself. You will need to renew the render every 5 years or so. Excessive water from sprinklers and irrigation systems can damage stonework by causing fretting.

How can I stop the rising damp?

The cause of rising damp is described above. When walls do not have a damp proof course (DPC) built in (they are rare in buildings constructed before 1850) then there is no mechanical means of stopping the rising moisture. You can hire a specialist to cut in a new plastic DPC or inject a chemical DPC. You should first minimise your problem by removing solid non porous barriers next to your wall, replace salt saturated plaster, allow the wall to dry out over at least 6 months and then check for further rising damp. If the problems continue then consider a DPC. Plastic is much more certain than chemicals and does not risk adverse reaction with the wall material. Be careful that after the drying period residual salts in the wall does not give you a false impression about further dampness. The salts can absorb atmospheric moisture and make your wall look like it is still suffering. Advice from a specialist heritage architect engineer or builder can help your analysis.

How can I put a damp proof course in my wall?

The best DPC is of a plastic membrane placed across the whole width of your wall to its full length. Do not use aluminium DPC as the lime mortar in old houses will rot it out within 5 years. Chemical DPC can be effective but is much harder to ensure continuous and complete spread. Chemical DPCs can cause reduced life in some sandstone. The introduction of DPCs is a tricky business and the use of specialists is recommended.

What type of paint should I use on my outside brickwork?

It is important that your walls are allowed to breathe, i.e. allow moisture movement from normal humidity changes. If they cannot breathe you will force rising damp higher and into your internal wall surfaces. Paints therefore should be of the porous type. Traditional lime-washes are porous and still are appropriate for repainting previously painted surfaces.

Flat water-based paints are nearly as porous as lime-washes and last longer. Several coats of water-based paints after over a number of years can lead to a reduction of wall porosity. You may eventually get some dampness problems so you will then need to strip the surface and start again.

Where can I buy lime-wash?

Lime-washes are commercially available, but it is preferable to avoid acrylic-based washes. If porosity is critical, the lime-wash should be mixed to old formulas using traditional binders.

Why are layers of stone falling off my sandstone walls?

You will find it is not every stone. When new stone is cut from the quarry it has a horizontal grain (called its bed). If the bed is turned onto its side in the positioning of the stone in the wall then it will be much less durable and will tend to peel off like an onion over time. Good masons never lay the bed over.

Is it OK to repoint my stonework or brickwork in modern mortar?

No. Modern mortars have cement in them that will eventually degrade the edges of the brickwork and stonework. Lime mortar mixed in the traditional way from rocklime should be used. Lime mortars are also more flexible than cement and will self repair for minor movement cracks.

How do I make lime mortar?

WARNING - This process can be dangerous. Wear protective clothing and goggles. Partially fill a large drum with water. Carefully drop in a bag of fresh rocklime and stand back to avoid the vigorous reaction. Stir well for several hours keeping the lime below the water level. More water should be added if the lime becomes exposed. The mix will boil gently as more water is added. Allow the mix to settle down and then sieve it through a 3mm sieve into a maturing bin. Retain undisturbed under water for at least 2 weeks before use. After that time mix 2 parts lime putty, 2 parts sharp sand and 3 parts fat sand. No water is necessary in the mix.

Where can I get replacement old bricks?

Think carefully whether you need to use "old" bricks. If the work is only minor repair or part reconstruction, it will be appropriate to use bricks which match the adjacent wall, but if the work is more substantial, e.g. a new kitchen or bathroom extension, consider using sympathetic modern bricks, or another material altogether, such as weatherboards. For minor repairs, it may be possible to find enough bricks under the house or in the yard. Otherwise investigate demolition sites for a suitable match. There are also brick companies that reproduce early patterns.

How can I fix my drummy plaster?

Drummy ceiling plaster no longer needs to be pulled down and replaced with plasterboard sheet. The plaster can now be successfully re-attached to the laths using an acrylic bonding agent. First vacuum all loose dags and dust, then support plaster in its correct position using props and material covered boards. Then spray bonding agent from roofspace. If inaccessible, the compound may be injected through a grid of small holes. Similar techniques may be used for wall plaster.

My floor is rotten, what should I do?

Find out what has caused the rot. It will usually be a combination of poor ventilation and insufficient space between flooring timbers and the ground. This will have led to rotting of wall plates and other ends of the floor joists. The solution may be easier than you think. The rotten timber can be replaced without removing the entire floor. Lift two or three boards on each side of the room. Prop joists, cut out rotten wall plate, and replace with a tanalised plate on a plastic DPC. If joist ends are also rotten, bolt new pieces to the side of existing joists. The new piece should be at least three times the length of the rotten piece to be replaced. Replace boards in their original position. Cross ventilation can be improved by providing bent PVC pipes between the under floor space and the outside air on both sides of the house.

Should I sand my timber floors?

If they were made before 1850s they will be pit sawn or adzed and will have the texture of those processes. Sanding will lose that patina. Treat your floors like a piece of antique furniture. In your endeavours don't lose the wrinkles of age. If your boards are badly cupped from previous water entry you may have little choice but to give them a light sanding on the edges. Original colouring or finishes (eg black japan) also contribute to the patina and will be lost in the sanding process.

My plaster walls look crooked and uneven - what should I do?

Is there any obvious damage that requires rectification? e.g. settlement of the footings and movement in the roof structure. Having solved the cause of any problems, repair cracks if necessary. Original lath and plaster walls may have a mildly undulating surface - this uneven appearance is part of a patina of an old house and contributes to its character. Avoid trying to make the walls look "perfect", or attempting to imitate the appearance of modern plaster sheeting.

Some of my doorways are in the wrong place - how can I move them?

Before making changes to the plan or layout of your house, think carefully about possible alternatives. Get the "feel" of your house by living and sleeping in various rooms for a while. Work out the characteristics which are special to you, and any obvious advantages inherent within the layout of the house, such as views, sunlight, privacy etc. There may be a planning solution that doesn't require internal alteration, or moving of doorways. It is preferable to make alterations reversible, so consider retaining existing doors - even it means closing them off temporarily. As with all building conservation, do as little as possible, but as much as is necessary to satisfy your requirements.

How do I choose a colour scheme?

Colours are always reversible, but it is always best to adopt a scheme that suits the age of the house. Firstly, carry out some paint scrapings. You might find the original colour scheme interesting and worth reproducing. Old photos of our house, or a nearby house of similar age, (although usually B&W) can give some indication of tonal differences. There are also some excellent books that provide suitable colour schemes, based on detailed research of Australian houses. Most paint manufacturers now provide a range of "heritage colours", though the colours need to be carefully matched with the appropriate period and style.

What sort of light fittings should I buy for my house?

When was your house built? Electricity was introduced in Hobart in 1904. Before then lighting was provided by gaslights or kerosene lamps. Therefore the light fittings of the 19th century houses look more appropriate if they are upward fittings, as gas fitting were. Downward fittings are better suited to 20th century houses. For most situations a light fitting would be fixed in the centre of the room, suspended from a ceiling rose. Higher light levels are best achieved with portable standard lamps. Downlights seldom look right in heritage houses, and will substantially damage ceiling plaster, pressed metal etc. Modern reproduction chandeliers tend to be overused.

How high should my picket fence be?

Typical heights ranged from 950mm (for small cottages with narrow frontage) to 1370mm (for more commanding residences with wider frontages). 1220mm (4') was a very commonly used height. Pickets were with of uniform height, or increased nearer the post.

What's wrong with an 1800mm high wall?

Front fences traditionally establish or reinforce the setting of the old house, delineating the boundary between the public street and the front garden (usually comprising flowers or shrubs). The front fence shouldn't mask or conceal the house. Fences of 1800mm height (6') traditionally enclosed only side and rear yards - and these are generally unpainted paling fences rather than masonry walls. Building a high front wall to the street will have an adverse impact upon the setting of your house and its contribution to the neighbouring streetscape.

Should I paint my fence?

The rails and posts of a front fence were usually painted (occasionally oiled). Raw unpainted treated pine picket fences never match the character of an old building.

Further information on fences and gates is contained in the National Trust's Technical Bulletin 8.1: Fences & Gates: A Guide to Identification, Conservation & Restoration of Historic Fences & Gates, C1840 - 1925, published in 1988. This booklet is available for $16.50 from the National Trust of Victoria, 4 Parliament Place, East Melbourne 3002; phone (03) 96544711; fax (03) 96548143 or email info@nattrust.com.au.

Do I need approval?

Many people mistakenly assume that they can undertake alterations and repairs to their buildings without obtaining the relevant permission.

A planning permit (from the local Council) is required for any proposed "development" which includes external alteration or decoration, but not general maintenance. There are very few exemptions. If your house is included in the heritage register of the planning scheme, your application for a permit will be "notified" (advertised) before the Council reaches its decision whether to grant or refuse the permit.

Council will assess the application against the provisions of the relevant planning scheme, so it is useful to be familiar with the scheme's requirements before you begin.

Council may refuse your application or may set conditions with which you must comply. You may appeal Council's decision.

You must also obtain the approval of the Tasmanian Heritage Council before undertaking work (including internal work) on a place which is on the Tasmanian Heritage Register. This is sought by lodging a "works application" at your local Council, which is then passed onto the Heritage Council for assessment.

In many cases a "building permit" will also be required. This is also obtained through your local Council. Council staff will answer any questions regarding the need for planning, building and heritage approval. The penalties for unauthorised or illegal work are severe. In the case of work to places listed by the Tasmanian Heritage Council, fines can be up to $1 million.